Island Time
Explore the Shore Among Lake Erie’s Jewels
By Paris Wolfe
Few places in Ohio combine history and nature — and, let’s face it, a bit of partying — as successfully as Lake Erie’s popular islands.
Summer is the best time to practice your island hopping in western Lake Erie’s collection of little land masses. The Ohio “Keys” are rife with activities from mid-April through late October when the weather is temperate and the lake is free of ice.
While the islands are a boater’s paradise, landlubbers have easy access to three of the four islands by ferry. And, once there, bikes and golf carts dominate the streets. Rentals are available at the ferry stop. Cars are welcome, but few folks opt to ferry them over.
Island Hopping
South Bass Island (1,588 acres) is home of the legendary Put-in-Bay. It draws perhaps the most enthusiastic crowds for playing and partying on weekends, and recovers on weekdays. It’s popular with college students and bridal parties on the weekends, with a mellower vibe during the week. Plan accordingly.
Middle Bass Island (805 acres) is less commercial than South Bass but offers a handful of shopping opportunities as well as a state park and 184-slip marina.
North Bass Island (593 acres) is a mostly unimproved state park open to primitive camping with a special permit, hiking, picnicking, biking, wildlife watching and fishing. It can be accessed only by airplane or personal watercraft.
Kelleys Island (2,888 acres) is home to more than 300 people, making it both residential and recreational. Biking, hiking and beaches make up its attractions.
The actual experience at the islands might depend on the timing and location of a visit. Weekend evenings are rowdier and “crowdier,” while weekdays are slow and leisurely. Various festivals in the population centers generate crowds and excitement. Meanwhile, natural areas can be scenic and peaceful.
I’m Here — Now What Should I Do?
Bike
Riding doubles as exercise and transportation. While cars are allowed on the islands, bicycles and golf carts are the preferred method of transportation. Small island sizes and flat terrain ease the journey. Rentals are available at a number of places, including the ferry stop.
Sightsee
Among many attractions is Perry’s Victory and International Peace Memorial in a national park on South Bass Island. A 352-foot high Doric column honors those who fought in the Battle of Lake Erie during the War of 1812 and celebrates long-lasting peace among Great Britain, Canada and the U.S. The monument is being restored in 2017, so the observation deck is inaccessible.
Hike
Among the various hiking opportunities on the islands is the National Natural Landmark, the Glacial Grooves on the north side of Kelleys Island. Visitors can imagine the power of moving ice to form the 400-foot long, 35-foot wide and 10-foot deep gashes in the limestone.
Fish
The islands are in the Walleye Capital of the World. Anglers have great success with perch and smallmouth bass as well. With advanced reservations or day-of luck, charter captains seek out the best spots.
Hit the Water
Kayaks, paddleboards and Jet Skis are available for rent on South Bass, Middle Bass and Kelleys islands. Adrenaline junkies may want to parasail.
Drink
European vintners have been growing grapes on the islands since the late 1800s. Three wineries — Heineman Winery, Kelleys Island Wine Company and Put-in-Bay Winery — carry on this historic winemaking tradition. Lonz Winery on Middle Bass Island was one of the most recognizable historic wineries. It closed in 2000 after a tragic patio collapse during a busy July weekend. The property became a state park in 2001. Today, a restored façade and the historic wine cellar are part of a 124-acre state park.
Dine
Friendly to every budget, restaurants offer everything from tacos to seafood, sushi to steak. And, of course, most kitchens prepare various versions of Lake Erie perch and walleye.
Shop
Boutiques, antiques, gift shops and art galleries join the practical baked goods, hardware and grocery retailers on the islands. You’ll find the most variety at Put-in-Bay and nothing on North Bass.
To plan a trip, check out shoresandislands.com.
Did you know?
Lake Erie has 30 islands, 16 that are part of Ohio. Another belongs to both Ohio and Michigan.
The Lake Erie water snake is a threatened species that’s only found on the islands.
During the Civil War, nearby Johnson’s Island housed the only Union prison for Southern officers.
Rush Hours
Get your adrenaline fix at Cedar Point before relaxing in the islands. Just next door on the shore, the amusement park is home to 70 rides, including 17 world-class roller coasters, the Cedar Point Shores Water Park, a mile-long beach, marinas, hotels and more.
New this year is a virtual reality/3-D coaster experience on the Iron Dragon (evenings only). For more information, see cedarpoint.com.
Paris Wolfe is picking out a bathing suit for this year’s trip to the Islands.
