Kathy and Don Mocarski went on a group tour of Grand River Valley wineries in December a few years ago. They were so impressed with the area where Lake and Ashtabula counties meet that they returned to try more wine and wineries. Then, they returned again. And, again.
Over time, winery hopping became a passion. They leave North Royalton on a Sunday morning and ride their Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic on side roads to the Northeast Ohio countryside to visit their favorite vintners. “It takes about two hours on the backroads,” Kathy says. “This isn’t just about wine. It’s about enjoying the entire experience.”
Plenty to Choose
Their most frequently visited wineries are Kosicek Vineyards, M Cellars, Laurentia Winery, Hundley Cellars and Harpersfield Winery.
“We like winery owner Tony Kosicek. He treats us like friends” Kathy says. “We love both the atmosphere and the wine at his place. We love his 534, a red wine you serve cold.” The 534 is a blend made from hybrids Marechal Foch and Vidal Blanc.
The Mocarskis are among the thousands of people who visit the Grand River Valley appellation each year, one of six wine “trails” in Ohio. The area is home to more than 20 wineries serving everything from varietals such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to natives such as Niagara and Pink Catawba. Most offer food, as well as musical entertainment on weekends.
Among Northeast Ohio pioneers are decades-experienced Debonne Vineyards and Ferrante Winery. At least two vintners are opening this summer, making for a dynamic and evolving winery experience.
Though other parts of Ohio have wineries, the Northeast corner of the state— with its Lake Erie-buffered microclimate — has more than half the state’s wine-grape acreage and the greatest concentration of wineries. Fields that once grew bunches of native Concord and Niagara grapes now nurture manicured rows of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Vidal Blanc and more. A late summer drive rewards tourists with the aromas of these fruits as they ripen and intensify.
Plan a day or long weekend in the region. Between wine tastings, check out Ashtabula County’s covered bridges, a canopy tour at Holden Arboretum, shopping just about anywhere and farm-to-table dining at restaurants that dot the region. Eat ice cream at retro resort town Geneva-on-the-Lake. Take a break in the waves of Lake Erie. Vary your experience at a distillery or a brewery tucked among the vineyards. There’s plenty to see.
For those who want to spend a weekend in the country, lodging options range from the full-service The Lodge at Geneva-on-the-Lake to bed-and-breakfast extraordinaire The Lakehouse Inn. Both are at the west end of Geneva-on-the-Lake and feature dynamic lake views.
Dining can range from snacks or dinner at wineries or farm-to-table restaurants created by local celebrity chefs including Nate Fagnilli at Crosswinds Grille at The Lakehouse Inn Winery, or Nick Kustala at The Farmer The Butcher The Chef in Austinburg. Or try independent restaurants like Rennick Meat Market or Bascule Bridge in Ashtabula Harbor.
The adventurous who wander beyond wineries will find sunset kayak tours at Harbor Yak in Ashtabula Harbor or Sunday morning yoga at The Lakehouse Inn.
A little planning and you’ll want to return again and again — just like the Mocarskis.
SIDEBAR
Sip Tips
With a deep selection of wineries and wines available in Northeast Ohio, it’s easy to spend a long weekend comparing the best cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Or native Catawbas and Concords, depending on your taste buds. Pay no attention to wine snobbery; drink what makes you happy. With so many choices, area wineries have something for everyone.
If you haven’t done tastings lately, stay calm and sample on. Upon arrival, make your way to the establishment’s wine bar and ask how the operation handles their tastings. You may stand at the bar to swirl and sip individual wines in stemmed glasses at M Cellars. Or carry a curated collection — with descriptions — to a lake-view table at The Lakehouse Inn Winery. Or perhaps, buy a tray of seven one-ounce tasting glasses at Ferrante Winery. Be sure to follow the server’s instruction to taste in the correct order — dry to sweet — to have the best experience.
Know that most tastings have a price, though some wineries waive it if you buy qualified quantities of wine. And, adjust your expectations to the time and day. You may zip right up to the bar on a slow Wednesday afternoon or wait in line on a busy summer Saturday night. Hint: Weekdays tend to be quiet. That’s when you might stand at the tasting bar and get an education on each wine.
Check web pages or call for schedules. The Lakehouse, for example, offers small bite pairings at midday.
Every winery has food, ranging from hearty appetizers and charcuterie platters at Laurentia Winery to an entire menu of Italian-inspired options at Ferrante Winery & Ristorante. Check winery policies before packing your own food as most wineries no longer allow it.
And, finally, we’ve got these suggestions from Andrew Codispoti, director of winemaking and distilling operations at Gervasi Vineyards in Canton. While not part of the Lake Erie wine trail, his tips are useful for wine-tasting newbies:
“Taste wine with friends. It will be more fun with comrades in the exploration. In the tasting room, the staff will enjoy sharing about their wines. So ask about the vineyards and how the wines are made. Plan for food around your tastings. It enriches the experience, moderates the alcohol and nurtures responsible tasting. Winery staff and restaurant servers will gladly recommend a food and wine pairing for you.
“Be open-minded and try different wines. You’re buying a taste, not a house. First, consider the color. It should be clear and inviting, perhaps prismatic or deep and rich. Next, place the glass on the counter and rotate the glass in short circular patterns to set the wine in a swirling motion to release its aromatics. This method is safer than freehand and will save on dry cleaning bills. Smell the wine. Try to identify the aromas. Imagine you are strolling through a produce market admiring the fruits and veggies. Do you detect any of these in the wine? Pineapple, strawberry, cherry, peach. Maybe apple, green pepper, mushroom or something from the herb counter. You get the idea.
“Now take a sip, not a gulp. You are tasting, not quenching thirst. The wine’s personality will reveal itself with levels of sweetness/dryness and sensations of acidity. Look for the flavors from the produce market. With reds, you will encounter degrees of tannins that can make your mouth feel dry even though it’s wet. Consider the wine’s body. Is it light or weighty? And the finish? How long does the taste sensation last after you swallow? Longer is better.
“Above all — taste responsibly.”
